Chocolat chaud: 'tis the season for decadence

Quebec has ruined chocolat chaud for me, and it's a very good thing.

Rich velvety chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) is one of my weaknesses in Quebec – along with flaky buttery croissants (but that love letter deserves a post of its own). It is here that I tasted my first mug of real chocolat chaud in late 2013; the rich velvety mixture of chocolate and cream (sometimes whole milk) seductively embracing my tastebuds.

When I lived in Ontario, I was satisfied with the hot chocolate from Timmy Ho’s (Tim Horton’s). It’s hot and tastes pretty good – until your tongue gets a taste of the syrup that’s settled on the bottom. A few cups of chocolat chaud in Quebec City changed all of that.

Drinking chocolate dates back to about 500BCE, when the Aztec, Mayan, and Olmec peoples mixed cacao with spices and water; using it for medicinal or ceremonial purposes. Hot chocolate as we know it today – hot, frothed, and sweetened – began in Spain some time in the 16th century and gradually made its way through the noble houses of Europe.

Chocolate appeared in France in the early 17th century during the wedding of King Louis VIII and Anne of Austria (thanks to Spain, who conquered Central America and took what they learned about cacao from the Aztec, Mayan, and Olmec peoples; along with so much more), but it was King Louis XV who was enamoured with drinking chocolate, along with his mistress Madame du Barry – hello, aphrodisiac connoisseurs!

King Louis XV’s recipe:

“Place an equal number of bars of chocolate and cups of water in a cafetiere and boil on a low heat for a short while; when you are ready to serve, add one egg yolk for four cups and stir over a low heat without allowing to boil. It is better if prepared a day in advance. Those who drink it every day should leave a small amount as flavouring for those who prepare it the next day. Instead of an egg yolk one can add a beaten egg white after having removed the top layer of froth. Mix in a small amount of chocolate from the cafetiere then add to the cafetiere and finish as with the egg yolk.”

Source: Dinners of the Court or the Art of working with all sorts of foods for serving the best tables following the four seasons,
by Menon, 1755 (BnF, V.26995, volume IV, p.331)

When Marie-Antoinette married King Louis XVI in the late 18th century, she brought a chocolatier with her – a truly badass move IMO – and 46 years later, Chocolat Menier was founded in Paris, France.

I’m unsure of when chocolate made its way to Quebec. Perhaps in the 18th century when wealthy settlers arrived from France, or maybe in the 19th century when it started gaining popularity in the United States. I suspect it was already popular in Quebec, perhaps brought over by early settlers from France.

So, thank you to the Aztec, Mayan, and Olmec peoples for their genius – and to France for making chocolat chaud super bougie and delicious.

My favourite chocolat chaud in Quebec City

Every winter, Auberge Saint-Antoine, a Relais & Chateaux property close to my building, offers Chocolat chaud maison – made with chocolate from France. It’s a decadent treat meant for two people, accompanied with two scones and whipped cream (in previous years they’ve served cookies or churros). I’ve been obsessed since my first try in 2014/15, and drinking chocolat chaud at Bar Artefact (Auberge Saint-Antoine) has become an annual tradition.

I, naturally, do it a little differently though; choosing to pair my chocolat chaud with a cheese plate. I often get quizzical looks from the servers, but I love the marriage of thick warm chocolate and salty creamy cheeses – especially a blue cheese.

When I joked with my serve at lunch today about the cheese cutting the richness of the chocolate, she replied, “So does water, that’s why I gave you a glass of it first”. Ah, yes, water works too, but who wants to choose water over cheese?!?!

The auberge is not the only place in Quebec City with delicious chocolat chaud; Érico (634, rue Saint-Jean) in the neighbourhood of Saint-Jean-Baptiste is another favourite. An incredibly talented chocolatier, Érico makes several styles of chocolat chaud, including “Decadent” which is an orgy of seven different chocolates (my choice, always). He also has a small eco-musée on cacao, and large windows where you can watch him work with chocolate.

These places are good too!

Le Petit Dep – 52, rue Sous-le-fort (Petit-Champlain, near the funiculaire)

Maison Smith / Smith Café – there are several locations, my favourite is the original one in Place-Royale.

de Terroir Café – 752, rue Saint-Jean (Saint-Jean-Baptiste neighbourhood)

Au 1884 – Dufferin Terrace, beside Château Frontenac (serves Érico chocolat)

La Fudgerie – 85, rue du Petit-Champlain

Midday decadence on a Tuesday is always a good idea

This January tradition of sitting by the fire and enjoying chocolat chaud and cheese, alone, is one of my favourite things about living in Quebec City. The decadence is a welcome reprieve after the stress of the holiday season, and a chance to reflect on my early days in Quebec City when everything was new and sexy and magical.

It’s still sexy and magical, I just move through the city with different eyes now; my newbie wonderment a distant memory.

I always forget how filling it is to drink 2 1/2 teacups of thick chocolat chaud, scones, and cheese. Still, my tradition continues, and now that I’ve enjoy my solitary indulgence, I may come back before winter is over to share the experience with a friend.

À bientôt!

Pamela xx